Take the opportunity to visit the villages of Tenganan and Truniyan deep in the mountains of East Bali, the home of the Bali Aga said to be the original inhabitants of the island. See these isolated villages that had been cut off from the rest of Bali for a very long time and view an ancient civilization at work. Stone walls right round the villages kept intruders away. The only access was through four gates placed in each direction. With an ancient social system still in place individual property rights are not recognized here. The layout of all houses in the village of Tenganan follow a similar pattern with a flight of steps leading to a courtyard around which lie the sleeping quarters, kitchen and the store houses. A small space is set aside for a shrine where departed spirits may rest when they visit. The most surprising aspect is that the village of Tenganan is one of the richest in Bali owning huge tracts of fertile agricultural land that gives them abundant harvests, more than enough for their needs. This is also the only place that a dialect of the Balinese language is used.
Known for their special cloth dyeing and weaving techniques, the Bali Aga turn out complex tie and dye and double weave ‘ikat’ or ‘gerinsing’ cloth. Tenganan village is the only place that this complex weaving and cloth dying technique is practiced. The predominant colours here are red, neutral and black. With a deeply ingrained belief in the supernatural permeating every strata of society, the cloth is believed to have supernatural properties and is used in religious rites.
Tall, fair and slender in appearance the characteristic feature of the Bali Aga is their filed and blackened teeth. The superstitious say that they bring down the spirits of their ancestors through sacrifice and the bodies of their dead are left in the jungle to be carried away by spirits. They are ruled by a council of elders who also officiate as priests.
Among the many festivals and rituals of the Bali Aga is ‘mekare kare’ or ritual combat where participants use the serrated edges of pandan leaves to draw blood. These ritual fights are held during temple festivals and participants are well fortified with rice wine and fermented palm toddy beforehand. Those who draw blood first are the victors. Combatants defend themselves with wicker shields. All wounds are treated with traditional medicines.
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